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Shaping fashion: Balenciaga´s legacy

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By Cata Greloni Pierri

The exhibition examines the work and influence of Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga, with over 100 pieces crafted by ‘the master’ of couture, his protégées and contemporary fashion designers that work under his innovative tradition.

According to Harpers Bazaar aditor, Diana Vreeland, Cristóbal Balenciaga was “the prophet of almost every major change in silhouette.” From dresses 8 shape, through layers of simple but forceful lines, and to the famous Bride Couture dress, the Spanish couturier was as sophisticated as modern and avant-garde. He operated the most exclusive and expensive workshop in Paris for 31 years and introduced iconic designs such as the envelope dress, balloon skirts and sleeves and hidden seams.

Demna Gvasalia

Nicolás Ghesquiere

Cristobal was used to take risks. He was not afraid to use volume to express his creativity. Today, the exhibition at Victoria & Albert Museum a London exhibits more than 100 designs from the 50s and 60s to the latest creative directors such as Nicolás Ghesquiere, (head at Balenciaga, from 2008 to 2012) and Demna Gvasalia, the Georgian designer founder of Vetements and current leader at the Spanish label.

Kawakubo

Although mostly inspired in sportswear, Gvasalia knows when and how to respect and creato from the massive archive file that the couturier left behind. Its famous Winter blue sports jacket from winter ’16 pays homage to Balenciaga’s necklines, slightly away from the body.

Inside Balenciaga´s creations

The V & A team worked together with the X-ray artist Nick Veasey to see the inner detailss of complex couture dresses. In this way, people could understood how some silhouettes could be achieved and several elements like broches and ties became important, which, through them, could shape designs properly.

Bonus track: the hat collection

In addition to the hundreds of designs by Balenciaga and others such as Kawakubo and Chalayan, the exhibition features twenty original hats created by Balenciaga himself, including the cream colored spiral design, created in 1962. 

 

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