The big apple kicked off fashion month with vibrant collections where tailoring, oversize style, the extensive use of faux fur and leather prevailed. A tour of the collections we liked the most.
Marc Jacobs: Eighties Mystery
As part of a detective film, the models walked down the runway as heroines with maxi double breast coats in vibrant colours. Maxi hats -by Stephen Jones- were used with ruffled garments and an oversize silhouette, which placed its accent on shoulders. Very Dick Tracy style.
Sies Marjan: Chromatic Perception
One of the most refreshing and surprising brands from NYFW. Different tones of orange, pink and red were mixed with gray, ice blue and loden green, in a collection of iridescent, satin and holographic clothes. Sophisticated, modern, and daring, without so much artifice.
Alexander Wang: A return to the Matrix
Athleisure master knows how to make street style stars drive crazy. This time his collection included translucent tights with maxi logos, which we are sure will be the most coveted. Wang raised the bet in a very sophisticated line full of leather tailoring in leather and metal zippers in its seams. Circular pockets on overcoats and skirts were surprising, as well as accents of colour in fuchsia.
Carolina Herrera: Farewell ballad
In her last collection as a creative direction before turning into brand ambassador, Herrera pays tribute to her iconic style and classics. White shirts and maxi silk skirts dominated the runway in every possible colour combination with wide belts. In addition, a wide selection of dresses in all shades – from ice blue to magenta, red and orange- and different fabrics such as lurex, silk, brocato and tulle.
Victoria Beckham: Functional Modernism
Posh Spice loves oversize and layered tailoring. This winter, Victoria focused on waists with asymmetrical ties, in a neutral palette in loden green, gray, beige, brown and navy blue. Some animal prints joined this sophisticated and modern style, who whispers new luxury and high quality.
Cushnie et Ochs: Monochromatic femininity
Bare skin was C&O leading character due to deep necklines, subtractions and transparencies seen on every piece of winter´s collection. On the other hand, every look was styled by colours, in a big palette that went from white, silver and black, to pink, nude and shocking fuchsia (trend alert) shades.
Zadig & Voltaire: Millennial rockstars
Between an insolent vibe and full of British hints, Zadig’s clothes exuded unconcern and freshness, with a loose and modern shim. Motocross style pants were mixed with big sweaters and checked suits; fit, shiny and vinyl shorts, mixed with faux fur coats and many Scottish prints, both for men and women. The trench, the green parka and Prince of Wales print will reign in Zadig, in a collection for the new and old youngsters.
Tibi: Vibrating tailoring
A rainbow of jackets, coats, midi skirts, and giant pullovers dominated New York’s easy chic runway that featured a relaxed, semi-sporty tailoring. The color palette, the layered styling and the long, wrinkled boots were the most striking.
Calvin Klein: Mountaneer workwear
Raf Simons flooded the runway floor with pop corn in a collection that paired masculine overcoats and orange parkas with silky feminine maxi skirts silk in subtle light blue tones. Androgyny was interwoven with mountaineering in unisex woven garments, snow skiing woven hats and metalic leather gloves. Prints were yuxtaposed and worn in complements, delicate dresses and even in Looney Tunes printed sweaters.