At the start of the most exclusive Paris fashion week, María Grazia Chiuri took over surrealism, in a collection where black and white prevailed
Today in Le Banana, the 7 keys to understand Dior Haute Couture
The Rodin Museum was the perfect setting to host Dior fashion show that payed tribute to one of the first surrealist women artists, the Argentine Leonor Fini. Also, to André Breton and Jean Cocteau. Enormous cages and flying torsos, eyes and noses hung from the ceiling over a black and white chessboard.
Dramatic look
Dior´s make up artist Peter Philips, kept skin and mouth in neutral tones to prioritze eyes, with a long and feathered outline that were also embroidered in dresses. This makeup was enhanced by the use of delicate masks.
Under the veil
Irregular nets, embroidered insects over tulles, geometric black and golden masks and translucent in delicate genres such as silk and tulle. Eyes played a huge role at Dior Haute Couture.
Diaphanous surfaces
The former Valentino designer love to use (and abuse) of sheer fabrics. On footwear, several silk or tulle layers and in puffed sleeves, most dresses were romantic and see-through, as well as many of the shirts that were matching the tilored suits.
In and out the cage
As a symbol of protection or isolation, it was presented throughout the entire collection. More literally, over the ceiling that the Bureau Betak studio created for the show, and abstractly in asymmetrical earrings and translucent adherent dresses in black and white guides. It were also seen in long skirts, reminiscent of crinolines.
Dior, the sartorialist
It is impossible to think about a Christian Dior Couture show without referring to the Bar jacket. This time, Chiuri reinterpreted into strapless tops over evasée skirts, two-piece suits with skinny pants. Also, in sleeveless jackets with overturned collars and long trench with tarot motifs.
Over my skin
After the “we should all be feminists” T-shit, the creative director went again with slogans but over models´ collarbones and hands. Anduve Bretpn manifesto lines such as “Love is always in front of you. Ama! ” or Jean Cocteau’s “Feel before understanding ” were temporarily applied on tattoos.
Playing chess
To match the floor, most outfits were black and white, with some accents in nude, beige, sky blue and red. This tandem grid of psychedelic op-art prints varied from silks to chiffons to prints created from peacock feathers. The duotone was also applied domino prints, tarot card sketches and butterfly compositions.
See the complete show of Dior Haute Couture:
Enjoy!