Por Catalina Greloni Pierri
The glass and wood doors at the Ritz Hotel in Paris revolved to the rhythm of disco music while Cara Delevigne, in a wool two-piece suit with pearls appliqués and embroidered camellias, made her come back to the runaways for the Metiérs d’Art de Chanel show, where the French brand pays tribute to the oldest and most exquisite trades in fashion.
More than 300 guests from press, buyers and Chanel friends, including Vanessa Paradis, Anna Wintour and Carine Roitfeld witnessed #ParisCosmopolite, the new Pre-Fall collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld that brought alive memories from the ’20s and’ 30, that time when Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel lived at the famous hotel at Place Vendôme.
The models appeared candid among the attendants, set at tables between the salons of the bar, restaurant, bookstore and winter garden. Cara, Mica Argarañaz, Jamie Bochert and Magda Laguinge danced and showed a joyful attitude while looking at each other with self-satisfied smiles that reinforced the mastery of Pre Fall looks.
Lagerfeld knows how to create perfect sceneries for Métiers d’Art fashion shows and he had proven this many times in past editions, taking press and guests to places like Rome, Salzburg and Texas. This year he decided to pay homage to the Maison founder in the place where she chose to live and die and the collection lived up to the circumstances.
The famous woolen tweed suits haven’t lost vitality and, details of trimmings and floral appliques in denim were combined with modern knee-length golden pailettes leggings. He also mixed the finest and draped lace and tulle couture dresses with heavy chains and sport lightweight jackets.
Denim in demi-couture garments, accessories, trimmings and appliqués was a big surprise, as well as the use of pink vivid roses for the headdresses with fragile nets replacing the classic camellias. Lagerfeld joined the trend with Chanel golden branded chokers and heavy key shaped bling bling accessories. The wide variety of jackets amused everyone. From embroidered woolen toreros, tuxedos with front and back collars to leather jackets and sportive coats, in a color palette dominated by black, white and gold, with pink and silver, red, nude and camel flashes.
Models casting was perfectly executed by Chanel´s Kaiser with some new faces: Pharrell Williams, new brand´s ambassador and Paradis and Johnny Depp ´s heiress, Lily Rose Depp, as well as Silvester Stallone daughter, Sistine and Lauryn Hill ´s offspring, Selah Marley were some of the surprises of a joyful and enchanting night.